Diamond Guide

There are a couple things to think about when choosing that diamond. First I think is the basic shape... Most people gravitate toward the round brilliant cut in diamonds, for that is the cut which makes the most of the light, the most effective and efficient with light return. If a person picked a diamond based solely on the dazzling life and fire they would in the greatest majority pick the round brilliant cut...

Cut is the shape of the diamond, and can also refer to the geometry. Fancy shapes are wonderful, and they lend a very interesting taste to the mix... Princesscuts with their square brilliant cut, dazzling and full of fire and life, or the emerald cut with the effect of an infinitely deep clear pool of water... In the emerald cut for example there is a totally different look than a brilliant cut diamond, the effect is totally different. I think that this shape business is about taste and personal preference first, but I wanted to give you my perspective on it now. The cuts like Marquise cut and Oval cuts are also wonderful, and one of my favorites it the Radiant cut, which is the emerald cut like shape but brilliant cut like a round brilliant, which breaks up the light in amazing fashion....

Color is something you want to consider too of course, the fact is that for the whites of the white the "D color is the best on the planet, and the most expensive all things considered. Where you will see no color is quite a broad range, from the "D" color to about the "I" color you will not see any color, but you will see what I would call a "blessing of whiteness" that is very subtle in that range. For platinum I recommend in the range of "H- and up" with the real impact of the top colors "D-E-F" as standing out strongly against the background...

Clarity is another issue that is important... Where perfect lays is the "Flawless or Internally Flawless" range, but apparent perfection in a well cut round diamond is easily in the as low as "SI1-2" range... I have sold many a fine idealcut AGS diamond in the SI1 or SI2 range with wonderful and total satisfaction. I guess that I should also say that in diamonds which are cut like the emerald cut, step faceted not brillianteered, I recommend a higher clarity for the lessened masking effects and tendency to reflect in the stone. VVS in where the inclusions are so slight as not to be seen easily under the highest of magnification. It's a great place to be, but more expensive than you need to be save for emerald cuts, which it is prime time for. The VS range (1-2) means "Very slightly included to the "X" power... There is a wonderful place for all cuts, clarity that is apparent perfection nicely...

Carat is a matter of weight, but apparent size is best described by measurements. For example, a diamond which is say a carat weight round brilliant which was idealcut and say 63% depth might well measure smaller than a 0.95 carat that is also idealcut, and sports a depth of say 59%... Interesting that "Look VS weight" equation, yes? When you are considering what size diamond to purchase ask me, email me, and let me give you the benefit of a considered offering. A half carat size round diamond will on average measure about 5mm and slightly over, a one carat diamond round will measure in the 6.5mm range... Fancy shapes are all over the place, but the geometry is predictable, and I can help you navigate, thoughtfully and well...

Certificates are critical. Buy that diamond on the strength of the clerk at the store, and their grading, and they are the only persons on this planet who will think that grade is accurate. Lab certs remove subjectivity from the equation, and there by you can start to compare apples and apples without a dirt-clodd slipping in on you. The best labs on the planet are GIA and the AGS labs, and EGL is also a very good lab as well for establishing what you are buying. I would not buy a diamond without a certificate, and in that respect I advise you against doing so as well... If you want to take risks take up skydiving or something, but do not take the risk of buying a non-lab certed diamond for the center stone. Side stones which are smaller are seldom certified at the lab, so cutter graded is fine there but just be aware that the future value of that diamond will depend on the lab cert, and if none exists then any buyer will likely want to grade that diamond significantly lower, and there by lower the price paid. Be smart, buy certified.

And the fact of the matter is that is you want me to find you a diamond that speaks to you soul and dazzles each and every day I shall be there for you. I do not stock diamonds to ship overnight, I do and can provide both diamonds and colored stones of all varieties upon request. Please email me with a thumbnail of what you are looking for, check the diamond specials page, and enjoy the production and common sense, for I am less interested in trying to sell you a diamond quickly that I have in the vault rather than help you locate the finest diamond for your needs, at the best possible price. My strength is jewelry manufacturing and design, and in this I supply and furnish many diamonds and colored gems for projects, as well as use client supplied stones.

OK, some good questions answered here, but I know that you might have more. Email me and I will fill you in and target a perfect solution for your diamond dilemma, and remember email gives me the best way to give you a good working set of data that is not babbled into the phone...

Help me to help you, and email me today...

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